Visible Transmittance Rating

This measures how much light is passing through the glass. Typically, you want a higher value, meaning more light is passing through the glass. An ideal combination is a low U-factor and Solar Heat Gain Coefficient and a high Visible Transmittance rating. In other words you want light, you just don't want the heat and damaging UV rays that come with sunlight.

Air Leakage Rating

This rating expresses the air passing through a square foot of window. Temperture exchanges from inside to outside and vice versa, occur by infiltration through the gaps in the window assembly. These gaps can be tiny but are inherent to the assembly. The lower the rating, the better. It means less air is passing through the window.

How To Buy A Door

I find when most customers think about doors, they think, “It’s simple. Unscrew my door from the hinges and slap a new door right back on them.” Nine times out of ten a customer will describe their door as a “standard size door.” Saying you have a standard door size is like saying you have a standard shoe size.

I understand the confusion. Intuition says that there shouldn’t be much to a door. In fact, many older doors come in a range of sizes. And as little as a 1/2 inch from a modern door size can make a world of difference. It can make something simple incredibly complicated. And we've all experienced a door that jambs in the frame or has gaps all along it. That's the result of an door set in an improper frame. In this section I’ll cover the most common formats in buying a door. There is much more to cover, be sure of that, but this list will give you the first sense in how to think about a door when ordering one. I’ll review pros and cons of each format in hopes that it’ll reveal the best choice for you, which will save you money.

Book Door
A book door is the door alone without any cutouts for hinges or door locks.

Pros: The least expensive of all the formats. Typically, 1-3 days to order.
Cons: The most expensive to install. First, a book door will need the door to be prepped for hinges and locks. There are specific tools used to do this correctly that could cost thousands dollars alone. Most people hire a door installer who already owns these tools, which gets me to my second point. You will need a qualified installer to install a book door that can cost you more because of the level of craftsmanship required. Very often people order the door alone but find its much more involved and expensive to install then they had considered.



Machined Door
A machined door is the door alone, except this door has been manufactured prepped for both the lock and hinges.

Pros: Less costly than prehung and prefits. Least involved installation. Typically, 3-10 days to order.
Cons: A machined door is the most particular to openings. If the opening isn’t square, then a machined door isn’t even an option. And MOST openings are not squared. They are also the most involved in ordering. There are at least 10 different things that need identifying. Essentially this door gets prepped for your particular opening. Knowing how to identify each and every item is key. Want more info? Email me and I'll send you a form on what and how to identify to have a door machined.





Prehung Door

A prehung door is a door already prepped with hinges and a bored-out hole for the lock and comes with the jamb.

Pros: This door is ready and squared to be installed. No master craftsman needed. It can be the best value considering all that comes with it: door jamb, weather stripping, hinges, threshold and sweep.
Cons: The installation can still be intensive, especially in regards to demolition. Existing frame of door needs to be removed. Typically, anywhere between 3 days and 4 weeks to order.

Prefit Door

A prefit door is the same as a prehung door except that the jamb comes separated and normally with casing attached to the jamb.

Pros: The same as the prehung. Casing comes with jamb, unlike prehung which require casing to be purchased and applied after. Typically, 3-4 days to order.
Cons: Existing frame will need to be removed. Prefit doors are only available for interior doors.

Window Frame Types

Deciding how you plan on installing a window will determine which window frame to use. I'll review three of the most common frames and explain what type of installation is typically paired with it.


Nail-On Frame

Nail-on frames are used when either the house is barely being built or the frame to an existing window is being modified. Essentially a nail-on window is applied to the frame of the the building. It requires flashing and caulking to seal the window and it is designed so that the exterior finish (stucco, siding, etc.) come flush to the window. Nail-on windows are appropriate for new construction but if the window is already existing you should consider what follows.

Retrofit Frame

Retrofit windows were developed in order to avoid tearing out the frame of an existing window, which was the proper way to install a window before they created retrofit windows. The nice thing about retrofit windows are that they sit over the existing frame and slip in relatively easily (provided you've measured correctly). When its done correctly retrofit windows are a fantastic application. But a word of warning. Retrofit windows have earn of reputation of being an easy installation but can be a headache if you don't consider exactly how it will be installed. An ill sized window is as good as a hole in the wall. Also, retrofit windows protude from the wall. It is a look that some people love and some people hate. Pay close attention to the frame when you are selecting a manufacture, there is a range of styles .

Block Frame

Similar to retrofit windows, these windows are designed to avoid pulling the existing frame completely out. In addition, block frames are made specifically for existing wood windows, where they are made to sit into the opening provided that it is in good condition. They are the least involved, in regards to installation, but they are also the most limited in application. Most windows will call for a retrofit application.

How To Determine Door Swing: The Dual Logic of Doors

I often receive questions concerning the handing or swing of the door. Customers often describe their door in terms of how they relate to the door--some see themselves outside the room, others see themselves inside the room. The truth is that door handing has a dual logic. It should be one rule of logic but old habits die hard and the industry has kept it this way for many years causing grief for everyone involved.

First things first. In determining door swing, you must first identify the make of the door and jamb. Typically you have wood, fiberglass and steel. These three types fall into two categories known as Wood Handing and Metal Handing, but don't let the names fool you, certain doors fall into categories that don't necessarily make sense. And a righted handed door for one is a left handed door for the other, so it's critical to know the difference.

Wood Handing: Wood doors and wood jambs.

Metal Handing: Fiberglass doors, steel doors, and metal frames.

The exceptions of the rules are as followed: Fiberglass doors often have wood jambs but the handing is determined as if it was a Metal Handing. Normally a wood door has a wood jamb but in the unlikey event that you're using a metal frame, then the handing is determined as if it were a Metal Handing.


Wood Handing Doors
The best tip in determine the handing of Wood Handed door is to look for the knuckles of the door(otherwise known as the portion of the hinge that protudes out from the door). A door always has knuckles sticking out on one side of the door. Stand on the side of the door where the knuckles protrude, then simply identify which side the they sit on. This will determine whether the door is a Left Hand door or a Right Hand door.

Left Hand Door

Right Hand Door

Metal Handing Doors
The best tip to offer in determing the handing of a Metal Handing Door is to step inside the door with your back against the frame, whichever arm rest against the door tells the swing of the door.

Comparing Vinyl Window Manufacturers: Milgard, Simonton, Jeld-Wen, Empire Pacific

One of the most common questions people have concerns the difference in vinyl window manufacturers. There are several names in the industry including: Milgard Windows, Simonton Windows, Jeld-Wen Windows and more. I focus on manfucturers who service the west coast and present a general overview of the features and styles available. Once you start to narrow your choice you will want to visit a local dealer to see the windows up close, get a sense of how they feel to slide or open. I can't recommend that enough.

Milgard Styleline (view window up-close)

Milgard Tuscany (view window up-close)

Simonton Windows (view window up-close)

Jeld-Wen Windows (view window up-close)

Empire Pacific Windows (view window up-close)